What would I do without Brian? He rubs my feet whenever I ask and doesn't mind when I sign him up for early-morning golf lessons. He happily takes long treks across the city with me (provided a meal or at least a frosty beer awaits him at the end) and tackles big piles of dirty dishes with gusto. And, there's this: it's not easy finding a special someone who shares your enthusiasm for anchovies.

We eat the fishy kind from a jar and the wimpier ones that come in a tin. We eat boquerones—Spanish marinated anchovies—and sardines, too, even though they're not really anchovies. We eat them draped over salads, dissolved in spaghetti sauce, tucked into sandwiches. And yes, we eat them on pizza.

That we don't recoil at the very mention of anchovies makes us two of an apparently rare breed. Even friends who happily slurp oysters and possess insatiable appetites for sushi draw the line at these salty little fish. Is it their passing resemblance to leeches? Is it their taste? Possibly—but I don't think so. After all, how can you dislike something you've never even tried? Yes, I suspect most anchovy-dissers wrinkle their noses without ever having tried the little fishies. If you really don't like anchovies, fine. However, if you just assume you don't like them—but haven't actually tasted them—I urge you to give them a try.

This sandwich—a takeoff on the classic Italian treat Mozzarella in Carrozza—is a terrific showcase for anchovies. Their salty, fishy flavor stands out, but is tempered somewhat by the creamy cheese. The red pepper flakes add a lively jolt of heat. Traditionally, this sandwich is deep fried, but Brian and I like our panino version just as much. If you don't own a panini press, try making it in a pan, like a grilled cheese.


MOZZARELLA IN CARROZZA PANINO

Olive oil
2 thick (about 1/2 inch) slices rustic Italian bread
Fresh mozzarella
Flat anchovy fillets
Red pepper flakes

Brush outside (the part that will touch the panini press) of each bread slice with a little olive oil. On one piece of bread, layer mozzarella (just enough to cover), 2-4 anchovies, and red pepper flakes to taste. Top with other bread slice. Cook in panini press until bread is golden and cheese is gooey.


Categories: Appetizers and Small Plates, Main Dishes, Fish and Shellfish, Sandwiches

Copyright © 2007 Sarah Kiino  www.avenuefood.com