In the early days of this blog, I penned a few half-hearted restaurant write-ups, but I've since abandoned the practice. Because, frankly, what's the point? Take any restaurant in Manhattan, especially a decent one, and it's almost certainly been reviewed and analyzed to death—-on blogs and Chowhound, not to mention in mainstream media. My home borough of Queens is paid much less attention, but many of the better places are covered. And let's be honest: who would value my opinion over Frank Bruni's or Peter Meehan's at The New York Times, Adam Platt's at New York Magazine, or even the judgment of the masses in Zagat?

Of course, all this background on why I don't do restaurant reviews is just an excessively drawn-out introduction to . . . a restaurant review. I've decided DB Wine Bar & Kitchen is well worth an exemption to my usual rule for three reasons: it's right on my home turf of Forest Hills; it's a standout (at least for the  neighborhood); and, as far as I can tell, the only reviews the place has received are a couple of threads on Chowhound.

If DB Wine Bar were located in Manhattan or Brooklyn, it would be merely one good restaurant among many. But instead, it anchors a corner on a dull commercial strip in my exceedingly unhip Queens neighborhood, where its enveloping windows and clean look ensure it stands out even from a distance. The interior is bright but sophisticated, with neutral colors and crisp white linens. About fifteen tables share space with a good-sized bar, and an open kitchen spans the back of the room. Chef Danny Brown takes most of his inspiration from Italy, but liberally borrows ingredients and ideas from France and Spain, too.

The menu is divided into "small plates"—which are essentially appetizers—full-sized entrees, and snacks like pate, cured meats, and cheeses. The cheese selection, which includes Humboldt Fog, Camembert, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and La Fourme d'Ambert, is small and not terribly exciting, but a huge step up for a neighborhood where a "cheese plate" will typically get you cold hunks of Havarti, Muenster, and Brie thrown on a dish with a bunch of grapes. The combined meat and cheese platter was done particularly well—beautifully arranged and served with a quartet of condiments. My only quibble was the inclusion of the pate. If it were homemade, maybe, but this stuff wasn't and felt rubbery to boot.

On our very first visit to the restaurant, an appetizer of white beans, calamari, and arugula was buttery and flavorful but suffered from slightly overcooked squid; we've had the dish several times since then with no problems. Serrano ham croquettes, served with a rich saffron sauce, are silky and decadent, but I still haven't figured out if they're supposed to be served cold or warm—because they've been a different temperature each time we've ordered them (but they do taste good either way).

Where Danny Brown really shines is with the entrees. I'll rarely order chicken in a restaurant because it's usually, well, kinda boring and almost never transporting. But here the chicken, cooked under a brick, is simply cravable—the sort of dish you think about for days after eating it. The skin is crisp and salty, the breast meat succulent, and the thigh meat even more so. The chicken is served with sauteed escarole and pan-roasted potatoes (I thought the potatoes were a wee bit dried out, but the dreamy chicken more than made up for that sin). Pork—both the loin that's regularly on the menu and a thick chop we once had as a special—is cooked to a pink and juicy medium. My advice to you: forget the conventional, and possibly outdated, wisdom about pork having to be cooked through to every last fiber, and dig in. You'll gain a new appreciation for how fantastic this perennially overcooked meat can be. The steak is also a winner (and here's where I utterly fail as a restaurant reviewer) but because it's been a while since I've had it, I don't remember the particulars. It comes with a red wine sauce, mashed potatoes, and watercress, I think? I do remember that it tasted really good.

The wine list is eclectic, not focused on any particular country. Being a wine bar, after all, they do offer a number of very good choices by the glass. It should be noted that the employees here are wonderful—friendly, knowledgeable, and professional. They really seem to believe in the place, and want you to believe in it too. And that, I think, counts for a lot.

UPDATE: Due to a copyright challenge from Daniel Boulud, DB Wine Bar & Kitchen is now Danny Brown Wine Bar & Kitchen.


DANNY BROWN WINE BAR & KITCHEN
104-02 Metropolitan Avenue
Forest Hills, NY 11375
718-261-2144
http://www.dbwinebarandkitchen.com
For directions, visit http://www.hopstop.com


Category: Outer-Borough Eats

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