Score One for Plonk

Posted by Sarah Kiino at 3/21/2007 4:46 PM
Categories: Drinks, Main Dishes



In an intriguing article in The New York Times, Julia Moskin puts to the test that often-repeated kitchen admonition "only cook with wine you’d drink"—and thoroughly debunks it.

In the most startling passage, she describes how she made three versions of the classic Italian dish risotto al Barolo: one with a 2000 Barolo ($69.95), one with a 2005 dolcetto d’ Alba ($22.95), and one with a Charles Shaw cabernet sauvignon—yep, Two-Buck Chuck. You may have guessed where I’m headed with this. Indeed, the seven-person Times tasting panel deemed the Two-Buck Chuck version the best, noting that the wine’s fruit "‘stood up well to the cheese’ and made the dish rounder." Their comments on the Barolo version included "least flavorful," "sharp edges," and "sour."

But I think I’ll stick with the sort of wine I’ve always cooked with—the inexpensive ($10 range) but still decent, bottle. Why? Because at our house, what doesn’t make it into the pot goes directly into our glasses.

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